Setting the scene

We asked Diana Darke, co-author of the Bradt Guide to Oman for her personal recommendations and suggestions.

  What, for you,  makes Oman so distinctive?

Oman’s strong sense of identity and distinct culture has been shaped above all by its geography. In addition to its dramatic mountains and extensive deserts, it is blessed with 1,700km of unspoilt coastline and has a strong tradition of navigation and trade.

  And where would you recommend visting?

When I worked in an Omani government department in the early 1980s, I made regular weekend sorties from the Capital Area into the Interior to climb and trek in the Jebel Akhdar, the Green Mountains.

I can recommend the climb from the village of An-Nid in the Sahtan Bowl, guided by villagers and their water-carrying mules, to the summit of Jebel Shams, Oman’s highest mountain at 3048m.

Oman’s other distinctive feature is its forts. It is said to have the highest density in the world, with over 1,000 forts scattered throughout the country. They demonstrate the historic need to defend water and oases in a challenging terrain.

  Can you tell us a little more about the relationship between water and Oman?

Oman has a surprising amount of water in its wadis, maximised by the extraordinary falaj system, brought to Oman from Persia around 1,000 BC. There are estimated to be over 7,000 falaj channels in the country, half of which flow all year round. Some are short, some long, averaging 3-5 km. They use the natural hydraulic gravity of water, so are environmentally friendly and economical. A standard greeting in the villages is: “And how are the falajs? Full, God willing.”

The coastlines vary from rocky headlands to sandy bays, and fishing is a major source of employment and fish a staple of the diet.

  As a solo female traveller, what do you consider to be essential advice?

Oman is an easy country to travel solo, especially as a woman. Demure body language is vital, and it is important to be polite and friendly but keep eye contact to a minimum in order to convey non-availablity. Long, loose clothing is advisable for climate reasons as well as discretion. 

However, being female is even an advantage, as you can interact with children and other women in a way that is very difficult for men. You can easily enrol into group trekking, sailing, riding and diving courses as a solo traveller.

  Are there any places that you would recommend visiting specifically as a woman traveller?

In Ibra there is a women-only souq.

  Do you have any recommendations for travelling solo by car?

I took a self-drive car across the Dubai border and drove over 3500km throughout Oman over the course of 10 days. The most difficult driving is in Musandam, the military road up and over Jebel Harim down into the Rawdah Bowl. The roads otherwise are straightforward, both in the interior and along the coast.

Remember too that a saloon car, especially a Japanese salon car, can do a surprising amount of off-road driving.